Reflection Week 2

Well today I got to my internship around nine thirty. Today is the second week and so I was already to do oil change now that I’m more comfortable with it. I got my first cutomer around 11 and he wanted I tune up. I really didn’t know what that was so I ask Jose one of the auto mechanics and he told me he was going to help me out with it. So I was told to get awhole bunch of bolts and spark plugs and filter and oil for the car. As he was teaching me I was taking down notes and then I went opn the computer and looked up more information. So what I learned was that most vehicles have an air intake system that will become clogged with air contaminants that the air filter cannot keep out of the system. This condition is called "coking" and can cause stalling as well as variable idle condition and poor mileage. The throttle bore in this illustration has been cleaned for visual purposes. Usually the throttle bore and plate are coated with a dark light tar that needs to be cleaned with every tune up.Most vehicles have a throttle cable that can be held open to help with the cleaning procedure. Open the throttle bore and with a cleaning towel and cleaner, (rubbing alcohol works well) continue cleaning until the throttle bore and plate are clean.Most vehicles have two kinds of ignition systems. The first is DIS (distributor less ignition system) and COS (coil over spark plug) no spark plug wires. If you can't identify which system you have, follow this link to get the right system for your car. Confirm your vehicle to determine the tune up parts needed. A typical tune up includes spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, spark plug wires, distributor cap and ignition rotor. You must determine which parts are needed before you start.Remove the spark plug wires retainer clip. These are important in keeping the plug wires separated and controlled to avoid any contact with undesirable components. Clean and inspect the spark plug wires separators for reinstallation.Remove the spark plug boot end and twist the boot to break the airtight seal created round the plug wire boot. Then gently pull the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Remove the plug wire from the coil terminal. It is important to change the spark plugs and wires ONE AT A TIME!!! to make sure you don't get the wires mixed up. If you have already taken them all off at once and cannot get them back on correctly.Remove all plug wires from the packaging, straighten them out and organize the plug wires from largest to shortest. Match up spark plug wires by length and reinstall one at a time.Next, remove debris from the spark plug hole, (canned air works best) then use a socket wrench and spark plug socket to loosen and remove spark plug (counter clockwise). Inspect spark plug for damage.Remove the spark plug from the box or container and inspect the new plug for damage that could have occurred in shipping. A spark plug has a porcelain isolator that is fragile and can crack easily. Next inspect the spark plug gap using a spark plug gap checker. The "air gap" should be measured as per manufacturer specifications. Most plug gaps are between .035 and .045 thousands of an inch. This gap is important because it determines the amount of resistance used to "time" the system. An incorrect spark plug gap will result in poor running, low power, poor mileage and a check engine light notice. Reinstall the spark plug and install the new spark plug wire. Most of the time a spark plug will come "pre-set" and ready to install. Continue the process until all spark plugs and spark plug wires have been replaced. Be sure to use OE (original equipment) parts for your car to insure the proper performance from your vehicle. This tutorial has outlined a tune up on a gasoline power engine, four cylinder 1995 Saturn SL1. Most gasoline powered cars and trucks are similar.

Reflection week 1

Well for the first day I went to my internship. My internship is at alocal gas station called PERTO MOBILE. When I first got there he told me that for two weeks I would be learning how to do oil changes. I took down notes because I knew we would have to teach the class and this is what they told me. The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan. When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck. Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.) Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil most full service gas stations accept it. Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess. With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it. Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil. Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on. Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise. Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too. The after alll that you check for the oil level. That’s what I learn and at the end of the day I ended up doin my own oil change and I did it real good. Next week I’m trying to get even more better because on Wednesday I’m going to do the oil changes again.