Thursday, April 23, 2009
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Reflection week 8
Well I went into internship thinking I was going to work on tire but then I ended up working with Robin. Robin Graduated from MTTI in electronic in auto mechanics and he always work on electrical problem. He was working on a car and he showed me how to change a broking tail light. As he was telling me I took down note. And this is how you change a broken tail light. Step 1: Inspect your vehicle's taillights. Inspecting your car or truck's taillights is really a two person job, one to sit in the driver's seat and step on the brakes and the other to stand behind it to see if they are working. Step 2: Purchase a replacement bulb. If one of your vehicle's taillights is not working, look in your owner's manual to see what sort of replacement bulb you need and head out to the auto parts store to pick one up. Step 3: Find out how to access the taillight. After you have the replacement bulb, you need to find out how to access the burned out one. Again check your vehicle's owner's manual to see how it is done. Step 4: Pull out the taillight housing. In some cars one can access their taillight's housing through the truck or tailgate. It is usually held in place by a couple of screws. Some screws can be turned by hand and others need a screwdriver. Remove the screws and separate the taillight housing from your vehicle. Step 5: Take out the socket. Now that the housing is out, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise as far as it will go and pull it out of the housing. Step 6: Inspect the bulb. Once the bulb is out, take a close look at it to make sure that it is burned out. If its filament is broken it definitely needs to be replaced. If the filament is intact, but it isn't working it may be a sign of another problem. Step 7: Remove the bad bulb. If the bulb is burned out, remove it from the socket. In newer vehicles you should be able to simply pull the bulb out, but in many older vehicles you will have to turn the bulb to remove it. Step 8: Plug in the new bulb. Step 9: Put the socket back in the housing. Step 10: Screw the housing back into the vehicle. Step 11: Test out the new light.
Well I went into internship thinking I was going to work on tire but then I ended up working with Robin. Robin Graduated from MTTI in electronic in auto mechanics and he always work on electrical problem. He was working on a car and he showed me how to change a broking tail light. As he was telling me I took down note. And this is how you change a broken tail light. Step 1: Inspect your vehicle's taillights. Inspecting your car or truck's taillights is really a two person job, one to sit in the driver's seat and step on the brakes and the other to stand behind it to see if they are working. Step 2: Purchase a replacement bulb. If one of your vehicle's taillights is not working, look in your owner's manual to see what sort of replacement bulb you need and head out to the auto parts store to pick one up. Step 3: Find out how to access the taillight. After you have the replacement bulb, you need to find out how to access the burned out one. Again check your vehicle's owner's manual to see how it is done. Step 4: Pull out the taillight housing. In some cars one can access their taillight's housing through the truck or tailgate. It is usually held in place by a couple of screws. Some screws can be turned by hand and others need a screwdriver. Remove the screws and separate the taillight housing from your vehicle. Step 5: Take out the socket. Now that the housing is out, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise as far as it will go and pull it out of the housing. Step 6: Inspect the bulb. Once the bulb is out, take a close look at it to make sure that it is burned out. If its filament is broken it definitely needs to be replaced. If the filament is intact, but it isn't working it may be a sign of another problem. Step 7: Remove the bad bulb. If the bulb is burned out, remove it from the socket. In newer vehicles you should be able to simply pull the bulb out, but in many older vehicles you will have to turn the bulb to remove it. Step 8: Plug in the new bulb. Step 9: Put the socket back in the housing. Step 10: Screw the housing back into the vehicle. Step 11: Test out the new light.
Reflection week 7
Today I got to work with My friend Victor who is the one that works for petro mobile doing the tire Balance. I really thought this was cool because it looked interesting and I knew I couldn’t do it myself because it looks really difficult. So he described it to me and once again I took notes and I also looked on the internet. For the sake of example, assume you have driven your tires 5,000 miles since their purchase and it's time to rotate. Over the miles, turning left and right, hitting bumps and holes you could not see or avoid, and driving down uneven road surfaces have led to uneven tread wear on your tires. Perhaps a pothole has knocked-out your vehicle's alignment (this creates uneven tire wear). Well, besides rotating the tires and getting an alignment to set things right, you should also rebalance the tires. Even if you can't feel vibrations, they are present. The uneven tread wear has created an imbalance that generates excessive heat and wear on your tires. Considering the hundreds of dollars you spent on your tires, a rebalance is a wise expenditure. If you live near one of our stores, you should ask about the Lifetime Balancing program. For a nominal, one-time charge you can have your tires balanced at every rotation. Today's high performance tires and wheels are made with features that facilitate optimum mounting. Wheels are marked to identify the minimum radial run-out spot (low point) on the bead seat surface. Tires are marked with a high point location. Mounting the assembly to match these two points is called match mounting. This method minimizes the balance weight needed to correct any remaining imbalance and the radial run-out that may occur in the wheel/tire assembly. Force Variance On rare occasions, a tire may be manufactured with slightly inconsistent sidewall stiffness (creating what is called force variance) which leads to a ride problem. A new generation of balancers can detect this condition. The balancers can also guide tire technicians to remount the tire in an optimum position that puts the assembly within specification and eliminates the problem. If specifications cannot be achieved, the defective tire will be identified for replacement. Many of today's wheel designs necessitate unique wheel weight placement to achieve both precise balance and aesthetic appeal. Your tire dealer will inform you of the best method for your wheel type. Standard balance uses only clip-on weights as shown. This method is usually done on original equipment steel or alloy wheels. Different type wheel weights are used for each type of wheel. Mixed weights balance uses both clip-on and adhesive weights. The balance planes maintain the weights behind the face of the wheel. The use of adhesive weights is typically reserved for chrome or other wheels with a delicate finish. The balance planes maintain the weights behind the face of the wheel.
Today I got to work with My friend Victor who is the one that works for petro mobile doing the tire Balance. I really thought this was cool because it looked interesting and I knew I couldn’t do it myself because it looks really difficult. So he described it to me and once again I took notes and I also looked on the internet. For the sake of example, assume you have driven your tires 5,000 miles since their purchase and it's time to rotate. Over the miles, turning left and right, hitting bumps and holes you could not see or avoid, and driving down uneven road surfaces have led to uneven tread wear on your tires. Perhaps a pothole has knocked-out your vehicle's alignment (this creates uneven tire wear). Well, besides rotating the tires and getting an alignment to set things right, you should also rebalance the tires. Even if you can't feel vibrations, they are present. The uneven tread wear has created an imbalance that generates excessive heat and wear on your tires. Considering the hundreds of dollars you spent on your tires, a rebalance is a wise expenditure. If you live near one of our stores, you should ask about the Lifetime Balancing program. For a nominal, one-time charge you can have your tires balanced at every rotation. Today's high performance tires and wheels are made with features that facilitate optimum mounting. Wheels are marked to identify the minimum radial run-out spot (low point) on the bead seat surface. Tires are marked with a high point location. Mounting the assembly to match these two points is called match mounting. This method minimizes the balance weight needed to correct any remaining imbalance and the radial run-out that may occur in the wheel/tire assembly. Force Variance On rare occasions, a tire may be manufactured with slightly inconsistent sidewall stiffness (creating what is called force variance) which leads to a ride problem. A new generation of balancers can detect this condition. The balancers can also guide tire technicians to remount the tire in an optimum position that puts the assembly within specification and eliminates the problem. If specifications cannot be achieved, the defective tire will be identified for replacement. Many of today's wheel designs necessitate unique wheel weight placement to achieve both precise balance and aesthetic appeal. Your tire dealer will inform you of the best method for your wheel type. Standard balance uses only clip-on weights as shown. This method is usually done on original equipment steel or alloy wheels. Different type wheel weights are used for each type of wheel. Mixed weights balance uses both clip-on and adhesive weights. The balance planes maintain the weights behind the face of the wheel. The use of adhesive weights is typically reserved for chrome or other wheels with a delicate finish. The balance planes maintain the weights behind the face of the wheel.
Reflection week 6
Today the garage was close so we worked on one of the worker car and he need to jump start his car. So one of my intern name Jose told me exactly how to jump start a car and I a lot took notes and look more on the internet and I came up with this. Step One Park the booster vehicle close to the one that needs to be jumped, but not so close that the vehicles are touching in any way. You'll want to use a good set of jumper cables with thick wire and clean clamps. As you are hooking up the jumper cables, make sure they don't dangle into either engine compartment where they could get caught on moving parts (belts, fan, etc.). Turn off the ignition of both vehicles, set the parking brakes, and make sure that they are in either "Park" or "Neutral" depending on whether the vehicles have an automatic or manual transmission. Also, turn off all accessories like lights, radio and, if the vehicles are in a safe area, the hazard flashers. Step Two Begin the process by clamping one of the positive jumper cable ends (red) to the positive battery terminal (labeled with a "+" on the battery) of the dead vehicle. Be sure the connection is strong with the clamp securely "biting" onto the battery terminal. Step Three Connect the other end of the positive cable (red) to the positive battery terminal on the booster vehicle (again, confirm that a "+" is next to the battery terminal). If the terminals are corroded on either vehicle, you may have to scrape them with an abrasive such as steel wool to achieve a solid connection. Step Four Connect the negative cable end (black) to the negative battery terminal on the booster car (marked with a "-"). Finally, attach the other end of the negative cable to an unpainted metal surface on the engine of the dead car. Find an unpainted bolt or bracket that is as far from the dead battery as possible. This will provide a solid ground while further reducing the possibility of igniting any hydrogen gas. Step Five Make a final check to confirm that the jumper cables are not near any moving engine parts, and start the booster car. Let it idle for several minutes, depending on the state of the dead battery. If the dead battery is new and was drained by the lights being left on an extended period of time, it will probably start immediately. If it is an old battery or it has sat for a long time (more than a month) it will probably take awhile to charge it sufficiently. Step Six Start the dead vehicle and let the two vehicles idle for a few minutes. If the dead vehicle refuses to start, don't keep trying or you might damage the starter. If there is the possibility of additional problems, like a lack of fuel, don't continue trying to start the dead vehicle until the other problem(s) are solved. Step Seven Once the dead vehicle is started and running smoothly, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order that they were connected. As you disconnect them, be careful not to let the dangling cables fall into the engine compartments or touch each other. Step Eight Drive the revived car to somewhere safe and secure before shutting off the engine. Depending on the battery's condition, it might need to be jumped the next time it is started. To properly charge the battery, attach it to a certified battery charger and leave it connected for at least 12 hours. You can also take it to an automotive repair shop for complete charging. Driving the car for an extended period can also charge the battery, but this should be done only if the other two options aren't available. A vehicle's alternator is primarily designed to maintain a battery, not charge it from a complete drain.
Today the garage was close so we worked on one of the worker car and he need to jump start his car. So one of my intern name Jose told me exactly how to jump start a car and I a lot took notes and look more on the internet and I came up with this. Step One Park the booster vehicle close to the one that needs to be jumped, but not so close that the vehicles are touching in any way. You'll want to use a good set of jumper cables with thick wire and clean clamps. As you are hooking up the jumper cables, make sure they don't dangle into either engine compartment where they could get caught on moving parts (belts, fan, etc.). Turn off the ignition of both vehicles, set the parking brakes, and make sure that they are in either "Park" or "Neutral" depending on whether the vehicles have an automatic or manual transmission. Also, turn off all accessories like lights, radio and, if the vehicles are in a safe area, the hazard flashers. Step Two Begin the process by clamping one of the positive jumper cable ends (red) to the positive battery terminal (labeled with a "+" on the battery) of the dead vehicle. Be sure the connection is strong with the clamp securely "biting" onto the battery terminal. Step Three Connect the other end of the positive cable (red) to the positive battery terminal on the booster vehicle (again, confirm that a "+" is next to the battery terminal). If the terminals are corroded on either vehicle, you may have to scrape them with an abrasive such as steel wool to achieve a solid connection. Step Four Connect the negative cable end (black) to the negative battery terminal on the booster car (marked with a "-"). Finally, attach the other end of the negative cable to an unpainted metal surface on the engine of the dead car. Find an unpainted bolt or bracket that is as far from the dead battery as possible. This will provide a solid ground while further reducing the possibility of igniting any hydrogen gas. Step Five Make a final check to confirm that the jumper cables are not near any moving engine parts, and start the booster car. Let it idle for several minutes, depending on the state of the dead battery. If the dead battery is new and was drained by the lights being left on an extended period of time, it will probably start immediately. If it is an old battery or it has sat for a long time (more than a month) it will probably take awhile to charge it sufficiently. Step Six Start the dead vehicle and let the two vehicles idle for a few minutes. If the dead vehicle refuses to start, don't keep trying or you might damage the starter. If there is the possibility of additional problems, like a lack of fuel, don't continue trying to start the dead vehicle until the other problem(s) are solved. Step Seven Once the dead vehicle is started and running smoothly, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order that they were connected. As you disconnect them, be careful not to let the dangling cables fall into the engine compartments or touch each other. Step Eight Drive the revived car to somewhere safe and secure before shutting off the engine. Depending on the battery's condition, it might need to be jumped the next time it is started. To properly charge the battery, attach it to a certified battery charger and leave it connected for at least 12 hours. You can also take it to an automotive repair shop for complete charging. Driving the car for an extended period can also charge the battery, but this should be done only if the other two options aren't available. A vehicle's alternator is primarily designed to maintain a battery, not charge it from a complete drain.
Reflection week 5
Well I went into internship thinking I was going to work on tire but then I ended up working with Robin. Robin Graduated from MTTI in electronic in auto mechanics and he always work on electrical problem. He was working on a car and he showed me how to change a broking tail light. As he was telling me I took down note. And this is how you change a broken tail light. Step 1: Inspect your vehicle's taillights. Inspecting your car or truck's taillights is really a two person job, one to sit in the driver's seat and step on the brakes and the other to stand behind it to see if they are working. Step 2: Purchase a replacement bulb. If one of your vehicle's taillights is not working, look in your owner's manual to see what sort of replacement bulb you need and head out to the auto parts store to pick one up. Step 3: Find out how to access the taillight. After you have the replacement bulb, you need to find out how to access the burned out one. Again check your vehicle's owner's manual to see how it is done. Step 4: Pull out the taillight housing. In some cars one can access their taillight's housing through the truck or tailgate. It is usually held in place by a couple of screws. Some screws can be turned by hand and others need a screwdriver. Remove the screws and separate the taillight housing from your vehicle .Step 5: Take out the socket. Now that the housing is out, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise as far as it will go and pull it out of the housing. Step 6: Inspect the bulb. Once the bulb is out, take a close look at it to make sure that it is burned out. If its filament is broken it definitely needs to be replaced. If the filament is intact, but it isn't working it may be a sign of another problem. Step 7: Remove the bad bulb. If the bulb is burned out, remove it from the socket. In newer vehicles you should be able to simply pull the bulb out, but in many older vehicles you will have to turn the bulb to remove it. Step 8: Plug in the new bulb. Step 9: Put the socket back in the housing. Step 10: Screw the housing back into the vehicle. Step 11: Test out the new light.
Then you’re all done!!!!!!
Well I went into internship thinking I was going to work on tire but then I ended up working with Robin. Robin Graduated from MTTI in electronic in auto mechanics and he always work on electrical problem. He was working on a car and he showed me how to change a broking tail light. As he was telling me I took down note. And this is how you change a broken tail light. Step 1: Inspect your vehicle's taillights. Inspecting your car or truck's taillights is really a two person job, one to sit in the driver's seat and step on the brakes and the other to stand behind it to see if they are working. Step 2: Purchase a replacement bulb. If one of your vehicle's taillights is not working, look in your owner's manual to see what sort of replacement bulb you need and head out to the auto parts store to pick one up. Step 3: Find out how to access the taillight. After you have the replacement bulb, you need to find out how to access the burned out one. Again check your vehicle's owner's manual to see how it is done. Step 4: Pull out the taillight housing. In some cars one can access their taillight's housing through the truck or tailgate. It is usually held in place by a couple of screws. Some screws can be turned by hand and others need a screwdriver. Remove the screws and separate the taillight housing from your vehicle .Step 5: Take out the socket. Now that the housing is out, turn the bulb socket counterclockwise as far as it will go and pull it out of the housing. Step 6: Inspect the bulb. Once the bulb is out, take a close look at it to make sure that it is burned out. If its filament is broken it definitely needs to be replaced. If the filament is intact, but it isn't working it may be a sign of another problem. Step 7: Remove the bad bulb. If the bulb is burned out, remove it from the socket. In newer vehicles you should be able to simply pull the bulb out, but in many older vehicles you will have to turn the bulb to remove it. Step 8: Plug in the new bulb. Step 9: Put the socket back in the housing. Step 10: Screw the housing back into the vehicle. Step 11: Test out the new light.
Then you’re all done!!!!!!
Reflection week 4
This week for internship I had to work on change breaks and disc. This is what they taught me and told me that if you do not know how to check or change your cars brakes, you will waste a lot of money and put your life in danger. Most people do not know how to check or change their brakes; it is fairly basic and not expensive if you can do it yourself. All new cars have disc brakes, so this essay will only detail instructions on them. First inspect your brakes to see if they need to be changed and if they do to what extent. Maybe you just need to replace the pads, or you need to replace the rotors and the calipers. Jack up the car. Use a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands so that you don't have to jack each side up separately only. Find a place on the frame to start jacking the car. This could be done from either the front or back, depending on which brakes are being done. Place the jack stands under the frame. Once the stands are in place, release the pressure on the floor jack. Once the car is jacked up you can remove the lug nuts and take the tires off. The calipers are the pieces that actually move when the brakes are applied, they push the pads on the rotors to stop the car. The pads can be easily viewed. If they are worn a significant amount, they should be changed. Generally, the brake pads will start. Once it is determined what need to be replaced, removal of the old parts can begin. There are several reasons why it is a good to be able to change your own brakes, or at least be able to check them to make sure they will not fail or cost you much more money down the line. The bearings then should be removed from the old rotors, re-greased and placed in the new rotors. Keep something under the tube to drain the fluid into, and once the air bubbles stop you can close the valve and put the tire back on and the job is finished. Once the caliper is attached you must bled the line, so that there is not any air in it. You should then just check the pressure by pumping the brakes, make sure the brake fluid is full , then start out going slow and checking the brakes and if it works, the job was finished successfully. Generally they do not need replacement much, as long as the pads are changed when they need to be the rotors will last a while. Now if the rotors must be replaced, do the same steps as above, but do not put the new pads on yet. After, all that is needed to be done, is the car has to be jacked up again, the stands removed and the jack dropped down. Once they are removed the caliper should slide right off of the rotor. They attach the line to the new caliper and re-attach the caliper. The rotor then should be able to slide off, it may be a little tight and needed to be hit with a mallet or hammer a little to loosen it up. Then the pads can be replaced and the calipers reinstalled.
This week for internship I had to work on change breaks and disc. This is what they taught me and told me that if you do not know how to check or change your cars brakes, you will waste a lot of money and put your life in danger. Most people do not know how to check or change their brakes; it is fairly basic and not expensive if you can do it yourself. All new cars have disc brakes, so this essay will only detail instructions on them. First inspect your brakes to see if they need to be changed and if they do to what extent. Maybe you just need to replace the pads, or you need to replace the rotors and the calipers. Jack up the car. Use a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands so that you don't have to jack each side up separately only. Find a place on the frame to start jacking the car. This could be done from either the front or back, depending on which brakes are being done. Place the jack stands under the frame. Once the stands are in place, release the pressure on the floor jack. Once the car is jacked up you can remove the lug nuts and take the tires off. The calipers are the pieces that actually move when the brakes are applied, they push the pads on the rotors to stop the car. The pads can be easily viewed. If they are worn a significant amount, they should be changed. Generally, the brake pads will start. Once it is determined what need to be replaced, removal of the old parts can begin. There are several reasons why it is a good to be able to change your own brakes, or at least be able to check them to make sure they will not fail or cost you much more money down the line. The bearings then should be removed from the old rotors, re-greased and placed in the new rotors. Keep something under the tube to drain the fluid into, and once the air bubbles stop you can close the valve and put the tire back on and the job is finished. Once the caliper is attached you must bled the line, so that there is not any air in it. You should then just check the pressure by pumping the brakes, make sure the brake fluid is full , then start out going slow and checking the brakes and if it works, the job was finished successfully. Generally they do not need replacement much, as long as the pads are changed when they need to be the rotors will last a while. Now if the rotors must be replaced, do the same steps as above, but do not put the new pads on yet. After, all that is needed to be done, is the car has to be jacked up again, the stands removed and the jack dropped down. Once they are removed the caliper should slide right off of the rotor. They attach the line to the new caliper and re-attach the caliper. The rotor then should be able to slide off, it may be a little tight and needed to be hit with a mallet or hammer a little to loosen it up. Then the pads can be replaced and the calipers reinstalled.
Reflection Week 3
Well to day I came to internship at 9:00 and I found out that my intern has past away on that Sunday. It was an awful way to start internship but I had to do what I had to because I couldn’t let that get to me. I felt weird going to internship because I really didn’t fell comfortable because I need a new intern to teach me and I was already use to him, but I finally realize that this situation made me stronger and so I made it seem like I was finishing it for him to make him proud. I wish he was there because he wanted to see how I would do tire because he was the last one to teach me about it last week internship. R.I.P. Elio Rafael. So I started working and we already had a car that couldn’t start so we had to change the starter but what I was mostly going to do was change flat tires. My first customer came around 11:00 and my intern already told me what I had to do, so I did the following; well the first thing you need to do is grab your car jack, tire iron and spare tire. All of these tools come stock with any car and are locate in the trunk of your car or if it is a truck under the trunk lining or behind the seat trucks usually carry the spare tire under the bed. Next take the carjack and position it under the axle of the flat tire. Try to be on flat solid ground to make this easier. Twist the eye loop in the jack to raise the jack. Raise the car jack until it is tight up against the car axle. Some cars and trucks come with hub cap coverings. The lug nuts are behind the hubcaps Take a screw driver and pry the hub cap of to access the lug nuts. Take the tire iron and unscrew all of the lug nuts, do not completely take the lug nuts off, just get them loose. Go back to the jack and raise the car up until your flat tire is about an inch off the ground. Unscrew the rest of the lug nuts and pull the tire off. You may have to persuade the tire off with some jiggling. Now that the flat tire is off, put your spare tire on by lining up the lug nut threads. Now that you are in line, slip the spare tire on and screw on the lug nuts. Hand tightens the lug nuts until they are snug. Lower the car by turning the jack the opposite way when you raised it. Use your tire iron and tighten all the lug nuts. It is very important that you tighten the lug nuts that are opposite of one each other. Make your way around the tire until all of the lug nuts are tight. Use your foot and body weight to stand on the tire iron to get the lug nuts tight. And you are done now you can change a car tire.
Well to day I came to internship at 9:00 and I found out that my intern has past away on that Sunday. It was an awful way to start internship but I had to do what I had to because I couldn’t let that get to me. I felt weird going to internship because I really didn’t fell comfortable because I need a new intern to teach me and I was already use to him, but I finally realize that this situation made me stronger and so I made it seem like I was finishing it for him to make him proud. I wish he was there because he wanted to see how I would do tire because he was the last one to teach me about it last week internship. R.I.P. Elio Rafael. So I started working and we already had a car that couldn’t start so we had to change the starter but what I was mostly going to do was change flat tires. My first customer came around 11:00 and my intern already told me what I had to do, so I did the following; well the first thing you need to do is grab your car jack, tire iron and spare tire. All of these tools come stock with any car and are locate in the trunk of your car or if it is a truck under the trunk lining or behind the seat trucks usually carry the spare tire under the bed. Next take the carjack and position it under the axle of the flat tire. Try to be on flat solid ground to make this easier. Twist the eye loop in the jack to raise the jack. Raise the car jack until it is tight up against the car axle. Some cars and trucks come with hub cap coverings. The lug nuts are behind the hubcaps Take a screw driver and pry the hub cap of to access the lug nuts. Take the tire iron and unscrew all of the lug nuts, do not completely take the lug nuts off, just get them loose. Go back to the jack and raise the car up until your flat tire is about an inch off the ground. Unscrew the rest of the lug nuts and pull the tire off. You may have to persuade the tire off with some jiggling. Now that the flat tire is off, put your spare tire on by lining up the lug nut threads. Now that you are in line, slip the spare tire on and screw on the lug nuts. Hand tightens the lug nuts until they are snug. Lower the car by turning the jack the opposite way when you raised it. Use your tire iron and tighten all the lug nuts. It is very important that you tighten the lug nuts that are opposite of one each other. Make your way around the tire until all of the lug nuts are tight. Use your foot and body weight to stand on the tire iron to get the lug nuts tight. And you are done now you can change a car tire.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Reflection Week 2
Well today I got to my internship around nine thirty. Today is the second week and so I was already to do oil change now that I’m more comfortable with it. I got my first cutomer around 11 and he wanted I tune up. I really didn’t know what that was so I ask Jose one of the auto mechanics and he told me he was going to help me out with it. So I was told to get awhole bunch of bolts and spark plugs and filter and oil for the car. As he was teaching me I was taking down notes and then I went opn the computer and looked up more information. So what I learned was that most vehicles have an air intake system that will become clogged with air contaminants that the air filter cannot keep out of the system. This condition is called "coking" and can cause stalling as well as variable idle condition and poor mileage. The throttle bore in this illustration has been cleaned for visual purposes. Usually the throttle bore and plate are coated with a dark light tar that needs to be cleaned with every tune up.Most vehicles have a throttle cable that can be held open to help with the cleaning procedure. Open the throttle bore and with a cleaning towel and cleaner, (rubbing alcohol works well) continue cleaning until the throttle bore and plate are clean.Most vehicles have two kinds of ignition systems. The first is DIS (distributor less ignition system) and COS (coil over spark plug) no spark plug wires. If you can't identify which system you have, follow this link to get the right system for your car. Confirm your vehicle to determine the tune up parts needed. A typical tune up includes spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, spark plug wires, distributor cap and ignition rotor. You must determine which parts are needed before you start.Remove the spark plug wires retainer clip. These are important in keeping the plug wires separated and controlled to avoid any contact with undesirable components. Clean and inspect the spark plug wires separators for reinstallation.Remove the spark plug boot end and twist the boot to break the airtight seal created round the plug wire boot. Then gently pull the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Remove the plug wire from the coil terminal. It is important to change the spark plugs and wires ONE AT A TIME!!! to make sure you don't get the wires mixed up. If you have already taken them all off at once and cannot get them back on correctly.Remove all plug wires from the packaging, straighten them out and organize the plug wires from largest to shortest. Match up spark plug wires by length and reinstall one at a time.Next, remove debris from the spark plug hole, (canned air works best) then use a socket wrench and spark plug socket to loosen and remove spark plug (counter clockwise). Inspect spark plug for damage.Remove the spark plug from the box or container and inspect the new plug for damage that could have occurred in shipping. A spark plug has a porcelain isolator that is fragile and can crack easily. Next inspect the spark plug gap using a spark plug gap checker. The "air gap" should be measured as per manufacturer specifications. Most plug gaps are between .035 and .045 thousands of an inch. This gap is important because it determines the amount of resistance used to "time" the system. An incorrect spark plug gap will result in poor running, low power, poor mileage and a check engine light notice. Reinstall the spark plug and install the new spark plug wire. Most of the time a spark plug will come "pre-set" and ready to install. Continue the process until all spark plugs and spark plug wires have been replaced. Be sure to use OE (original equipment) parts for your car to insure the proper performance from your vehicle. This tutorial has outlined a tune up on a gasoline power engine, four cylinder 1995 Saturn SL1. Most gasoline powered cars and trucks are similar.
Reflection week 1
Well for the first day I went to my internship. My internship is at alocal gas station called PERTO MOBILE. When I first got there he told me that for two weeks I would be learning how to do oil changes. I took down notes because I knew we would have to teach the class and this is what they told me. The first step in an oil change is to get the old stuff out of there. The oil drains out of the oil pan at the very bottom of your engine. The oil is held in by a drain plug that looks like a big bolt at the bottom of the pan. When you remove the drain plug, let it drop into the top of the recycling container. There's a screen on top that will keep it from dropping into the muck. Let all of the oil drain out, then replace the drain plug, tightening it to your cars torque specifications (or "snug but not too hard" if you are sans torque wrench.) Put the cap on the oil recycling container so you can drop it off at a location that accepts used oil most full service gas stations accept it. Next you need to remove your old oil filter. Using an oil filter wrench, turn the filter counterclockwise until it's free. Be careful with it, it's still full of old oil that can spill and make a mess. With the old oil out and the old filter out of the way, it's time to put the change in oil change. But before you install the new oil filter, you have to prep it. Before you screw the new oil filter into place, lubricate the rubber gasket on the end of the filter with some new oil. Next, fill the new oil filter with oil to about 2/3. It's ok if you go over that amount, it just means you might spill a bit when you screw it on. Carefully screw the new oil filter into place. Remember, it has oil in it so don't forget to hold it upright. It screws on clockwise. Now you're ready to fill the engine with oil. Unscrew the oil fill cap and insert your funnel. I like to buy the 5-quart containers of oil (cheaper) but if you're using single quarts that's fine, too. The after alll that you check for the oil level. That’s what I learn and at the end of the day I ended up doin my own oil change and I did it real good. Next week I’m trying to get even more better because on Wednesday I’m going to do the oil changes again.
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